Credits: 3 (3-0-0)
Description
Wave generating and restoring forces, shallow water waves, coastally trapped long waves, influence of sea-bed friction, Wave spectra, Refraction and shoaling of waves, Seiches, waves-current interaction, wave transformation in shallow waters, Tsunamis, Breaking waves, Phenomenon of wave reflection, refraction, and diffraction, Surf zone hydrodynamics, shoreline setup, Swash and runup heights, wave generated alongshore currents, Rip currents, Storm surges, theory of tides, Tides in rivers and coastal lagoons, General characteristics of estuaries, Classification of estuaries, stratification, estuarine circulation and mixing, Shear instability at an interface, Entrainment and sedimentation in estuaries, Dispersion processes: Advective and turbulent diffusion, River-estuary-near-shore systems, Sediment characteristics, Sediment transport mechanisms: bedform dynamics, suspended particles in wave flows and vortices, Morpho-dynamics: Beach profiles, Tide range influence on beach morphology, Lee side erosion, Beach realignment due to climate change, Interaction of an estuary with the near-shore bay.